(English version below.)
Det er kaldt og mørkt. Hodelykta lyser opp stien et par meter framfor meg. Jeg kan se de andre et stykke foran. Det er fullmåne og god sikt. Formen kjennes bra, men ryggen verker. Tankene svirrer i hodet på meg. Hvorfor akkurat i dag? Vi har ikke gått mer enn 3-400 høydemeter. Litt opp i bakken, bak de klippene der ligger campen på 6000 moh. Jeg kjenner at jeg må ta i for å innhente gruppa foran. Den siste halvtimen har tanken på å kaste inn håndkleet begynt å kverne. Blir isjiasen slik jeg vet den kan bli, har ikke helsen min særlig godt av at jeg befinner meg i bratt, vanskelig terreng på nærmere 7000 m. Det vil være livsfarlig både for meg selv og de som eventuelt prøver å hjelpe meg. Jeg vurderer tanken på å proppe meg med smertestillende og la det stå til. Om en stund er vi i campen der vi skal ha en lengre pause. Når jeg ikke igjen de andre før, så får jeg ta en prat med guidene der oppe. Jeg er bare drøye 100 meter bak de andre. Jeg kan høre de snakker sammen i den for en gangs skyld svake vinden. Jeg fortsetter oppover. Skritt for skritt. Ryggen blir verre. Ikke ille enda, men det verker i korsryggen. Hadde jeg enda vært sliten i tillegg.. Er naturligvis andpusten og har travel puls, men kjenner at jeg har reserver å spa på med. Foran meg ser jeg at en til sliter med å henge på gruppa foran. Hun støtter seg på stavene og er ikke i form. Litt lenger nede var det et par som ikke var helt i slag, og måtte tømme seg. Noen svinger senere ser jeg at de andre har stanset. Da jeg kommer opp er det ytterligere en person som har møtt veggen og ligger rett ut på stien. Guide Alberto kommer bort til meg og sier at vi må gå ned og beklager det. Jeg skjønner at han ikke mener hele laget... Men for meg er det helt greit. Jeg har vel egentlig kommet så nær samme konklusjon selv at motivasjonen for å fortsette ikke er det den burde være. Jeg kunne nok ha gått de siste meterne opp til campen og vurdert på nytt der, men jeg tror ikke jeg hadde fortsatt videre derfra uansett. Alberto skal følge tre av oss ned til Camp Nido som vi startet fra et par timer tidligere. Det går sakte nedover. De to andre er dårlige og har spydd seg tomme. Kalde og ikke mer energi. De har det mye verre enn meg.
Jeg er på fjellet Aconcagua i Argentina nær grensen til Chile. 6962 moh. Det høyeste fjellet i verden utenfor Himalaya. Og slik endte mitt forsøk på å nå toppen. Og det føles ikke som noe nederlag. Vel føler jeg jo at det er noe jeg ikke har fullført der nede, men det toget har ikke gått. Fjellet står nok en stund til. Da vi gikk ned igjen til campen den natta så var jeg hvor rart det enn høres ut, glad! Jeg hadde allerede satt ny personlig høyderekord, og fått nok en bekreftelse på at jeg tåler høyder godt. Vissheten om at det var tatt en fornuftig og riktig avgjørelse var der hele tiden. Og i teltet der nede ventet en god varm sovepose.
Det er januar og høysommer her nede. Nok en gang har anledningen spilt på lag med tilfeldighetene og jeg er den lykklige deltageren på en tur med Gamme Expeditions. Nesten en måned på den andre siden av jorda fyllt med opplevelser, vennskap, slit, glede, fremmed kultur og masse flott natur. Akkurat slik jeg elsker. Vi er elleve personer som drar på denne turen. Fem av oss skulle nå toppen. En suksess! Og det ble akkurat så bra som jeg hadde håpet på. Jeg kjente noen av deltagerne fra før men de fleste var ukjente. Passer meg bra. Jeg liker å bli kjent med folk i en slik setting. Man deler opplevelser som preger deg resten av livet. Og man knyter vennskap for resten av livet. Vi var alle helt forskjellige personer. Hjemme ville vi antagelig aldri møttes. Men kjærligheten til natur og fjell samt gleden av å være på tur og viljen til å utfordre oss selv er fellesnevneren.
Vi reiste fra Norge en kald dag i romjula. En lang reise på nesten halvannet døgn og vi var i Santiago. Nyttårsfeiringa skal vi ta her før vi flyr videre til Mendoza i Argentina. Jeg slapper av på hotellet da det ble heller skralt med søvn på flyet. Vi spiser middag på hotellet om kvelden, før vi går ut for å se på folkelivet. Jeg kom allerede den kvelden til at nyttår hjemme i Norge aldri vil bli det samme. Underholdning og et fantastisk fyrverkeri fra byens tv-tårn. Og gatene var fyllt med hundretusenvis av feststemte mennesker i alle aldre. En stemning vi ikke har her hjemme. Og som kuliminerte i en kakofoni av jubel og sprutende champagne da nedtellingen var over og fyrverkeriet startet. Surealistisk! Og en opplevelse som man aldri glemmer. Mendoza. Et av verdens mest kjente vindistrikter. En by som har flere innbyggere enn Oslo men få hus har mer enn to etasjer. Og alle gatene er kranset av flotte aleer. Fra flyet hadde vi sett utover Andesfjellene og Aconcagua selv. Et imponerende skue selv om vi bare så en brøkdel av denne verdens lengste fjellkjede med tusenvis av topper på 5-6000 meter og høyere. Her skulle vi ordne med tillatelser etc. samt spise biff. Å spise biff Mendoza er obligatorisk. Argentinsk kjøtt er verdens beste. Biff og rødvin er synonymt med Mendoza. Argentinsk byråkrati hadde nok lært en del fra gamle Sovjet men vi fikk da ordnet det vi skulle etter mye trasking fram og tilbake i byen. At park-permiten kostet over dobbelt så mye som vi var informert om, får heller stå sin prøve. Alt skal ikke gå på skinner på en ekspedisjon. Det er godt over norske sommertemperaturer, men heldigvis er det ac på hotellrommet. På formiddagen dagen etter ble vi hentet med to minibusser. En firetimers biltur opp i fjellene langs hovedveien tilbake mot Santiago venter. Landskapet er spesielt. Da vi kommer utenfor vinmarkene blir det tørt og goldt. Heier og lave åser med spredt buskvegetasjon. Ikke trær. Og langs hele veien kunne vi se slike små hjemmelagede altere med lys og gjerne Jomfru Maria figurer som er så typiske for katolske land. Etterhvert så vek åsene plass for fjell. Høye fjell! Og helt annerledes enn hjemme. Fjellene der nede eroderer og forvitrer i mye større grad. Og et sammensurium av vulkanske og sedimentære bergarter. Og nede i dalene kunne man se enorme morener som elvene skar seg ned i. Penitentes er egentlig Argentinas svar på Trysilfjellet. En samling med hoteller ved et alpinanlegg. Men nå er det sommer og hotellene er fyllt av fjellvandrere fra hele verden.
Etter ei god natt i Penitentes skal vi endelig ivei. Litt ned i dalen er Punta de Vacas som er startpunktet vårt. Vi har inntil tre uker i telt foran oss. Ingen dusj, ingen barbering. Vi får klare oss med våtservietter og antibac. Dessuten så er fjellsvette kjent for å være renslige saker. Vi beveger oss sakte på stien innover Vacasdalen. Her er det en hel del vegetasjon. Ikke trær men mye busker og en del gress. Vi bærer bare en dagstursekk med det vi trenger på selve trekkingen. Hovedbagasjen tar muldyr seg av. I første campen er det grillmat til middag. Og vin. Det blåser litt surt og folk går tidlig til ro. Jeg tror de fleste er veldig fornøyd med at hotellsenger er byttet ut med telt og sovepose. Dagen etter så vider dalen seg ut. Vi har en del kilometer og gå men de endeløse elveslettene er greie å gå på. Men vinden står rett imot. Endelig ser vi neste camp. Og til andre siden innover i en trang dal kan vi blant skyer skimte målet. Aconcagua! Delvis snødekket og høyt der oppe får vi et par glimt. Natta blir vindfull. Og for min del litt våt. Jeg blir plukket ut som frivillig til å teste en prototyp på et lite knøtt av et telt fra Helsport. Aleksander driver og tester litt utstyr for dem og har med seg et Helsport Ringstind Ultralight som bare veier 900 gram! Et bra telt men blir nok litt spinkelt til en slik tur. Men jeg sov godt! 
På slike turer så er dagsplanen som man har i utgangspunktet veiledende. Vær, føre og andre forhold gjør at planer må endres. Så også her. Hele gruppa er i god form. Og i denne campen er det kummerlige forhold og ofte mye vind. Etter forslag fra guidene blir vi enige om å droppe en planlagt hviledag her og gå rett opp til basecamp dagen etter. Der har vi tilgang på alle fasilitetene som gjør fjellivet til en bedagelig opplevelse. Store mat- og oppholdstelt, toaletter, lege og ikke minst en mye flottere utsikt. Slike forandringer i planene ble også iverksatt senere da det ble bestemt at vi skulle satse på å få alle opp til Camp Colera på 6000 moh. Og derfra gå ned på andre siden av fjellet og ut igjen via Horoconesruta. Det skulle vise seg å være et godt valg. Vi fikk gått rundt hele fjellet og sett det fra alle sider. Det at vi går i nytt terreng er også fint. Det er mer motiverende enn å gå samme lange veien to ganger. 
Basecamp. Ordet forbindes med høye fjell. Kilimanjaro og Elbrus har ikke Basecamp. Men Aconcagua er i en annen kategori. Her er det livlig. Kokker, portere, guider og klatrere. Det snakkes ikke så få språk rundt deg. Det spilles musikk. Noen har et aggregat og en tv. Om natta sender plutselig noen opp fyrverkeri..!? Noen parrer seg i naboteltet. Vi mistenker kokken. For de som jobber her er basecamp hjemmet deres i sesongen. Opptil fire måneder. Dagligliv i 4200 meters høyde er ikke så veldig annerledes enn hjemme som man skulle tro. På vei opp har vi hatt toppen foran oss. Posering med toppen i bakgrunnen har sinket oss. Fjellet er mektig! Selv om vi går nesten tusen høydemeter ser det ikke ut som toppen kommer nærmere. Nå skal vi ha to hviledager her før vi begynner å frakte utstyr oppover på fjellet. Fra nå av får vi ikke hjelp av muldyr. Men vi leier en bærer til å ta teltene for oss. Her skal vi også til legen for å godkjennes. Det går bra. Jeg har bra, om enn noe snodige verdier og resultater. Noen blir medisinert og får en ekstra sjekk for å se at ting går i riktig retning. Men alle blir klarert. Dag sliter med en forkjølelse og blir forespeilet noen dgar før han kan forvente en bedring. Han bestemmer seg for å reise ned igjen og hjem. Trist! Jeg har vært på slike turer sammen med ham to ganger før. Han er den sindige totningen som er så fin å ha i ei slik sammensatt gruppe. Han velger å reise med helikopter ned igjen. En av de sterkeste i gruppa er plutselig ikke med lenger. Det er bratt! Det er løs ur! På ryggen har jeg drøye sytten kilo. Og bare jeg kommer over kanten der oppe så er jeg 5000 moh. Jeg er sliten. Den siste bakken er knallhard! Men formen er blitt bedre utover dagen. På morran var jeg uggen. Endelig kan jeg se over kanten. De siste meterne bort til teltplassen går tregt. Men etter fem minutter er jeg pigg som bare det. Vi steiner ned utstyret og slapper av en stund før vi går ned igjen. Rett over bc er det en litt utsatt strekning der vi må trå forsiktig og se opp for steinsprang. Det går fint begge veier. Lasagne til middag! Vi har det bare så bra! «Tenk å ha vært her akkurat nå dere!» Aleks får oss til å innse hva vi er med på. Plutselig finner vi ut at det er jo lørdag! Ekstra vin! Og det kommer. En aldri så liten fest i fjellheimen. Vi har nok en hviledag før vi forlater denne basecampen for godt. Jeg gjør ingenting utenom å sortere bagasje. Nå tar vi bare med det vi må ha over fjellet. Resten sendes med muldyr rundt fjellet og møter oss igjen i basecamp på andre siden. Vi har den eneste dagen på turen med ruskevær. Grått og noen snøbyger. Av 26 dager så var 25 helt skyfrie og med strålende sol! Tuben med solfaktor 50 minsker foruroligende fort.
Farvel basecamp. Nå er det slutt på komforten for en stund. Sekken ble litt tyngre enn jeg hadde håpet. Rundt 15 kg. Selv om vi gikk samme turen for to dager siden er det tyngre nå. Formen er liksom sånn annenhver dag. En liten hvil i teltet gjorde godt og ved middag var jeg helt ok igjen. Natta ble ikke god. Jeg lå feil vei i helling og følte at alle innvollene samlet seg i bihulene. Snudde meg til slutt og fikk sove et par timer. Nå skal vi bære utstyr opp til camp 2. I underkant av 500 høydemeter. Igjen slet jeg med å komme igang og igjen ble formen bedre utover dagen. Nå er det ikke slik at jeg er sjuk eller i helt råtten form når vi starter. Egentlig har jeg det ganske bra, men føler at kroppen bare yter 70% i starten. Kan ha noe med at jeg ikke spiser frokost, og at det går lang tid fra middag kvelden før til lunch. Men spiser jeg frokost så blir jeg hvertfall uggen. Vann med masse Tang (saft/juicepulver) hjelper godt på. På denne etappen kom vi så høyt at vi fikk se fjellene på andre siden. Og nå fikk vi se dem fra siden som vendte vekk fra sola. Heftige brefall og spisse tinder overalt. Et flott syn. I camp 2 var det vind og surt og kaldt. Vi spiste lunch i all hast og satte nedover igjen.
Jeg ligger i teltet i camp 2. Er sliten etter turen opp. I går hadde vi en hviledag i camp 1. Værmeldingene har vært litt skumle nå. Vi har bestemt oss for å gå videre til camp 3 (Colera) i morra og så starte støtet mot toppen påfølgende natt. Det er meldt en del vind, men vi vil prøve fordi det er meldt at vinden skal øke ytterligere de neste dagene. På morran pakker vi opp for å gå oppover. Alle er i bra form. Jeg har dagen! Føler meg fin når vi starter og det kjennes som om jeg fylles med energi oppover lia. Merkelig dette at jeg føler meg finest når vi brøyter nye høydemeter. Da vi er oppe i leiren bobler jeg nesten over. Har lyst til å jogge mot toppen. Nå virker den jo så nær også. En herlig følelse å ha, især når du har satt ny personlig høyderekord. Da jeg kom på toppen av Kilimanjaro som er hundre meter lavere enn jeg er nå, så var jeg helt kjørt. Nå må jeg ta meg sammen og roe meg ned litt. Prøve å sovne tidlig da vi blir vekket i halv tretida i natt. Søvnen blir amputert. Vinden fillerister teltene. Men tiden kommer og vi kler møysommelig på oss og plukker fram utstyret. Jeg og Johnny sitter i teltet klare som egg da Aleks stikker hodet inn i teltåpningen og sier at vi kan legge oss igjen. Vinden er for sterk. Nedtur!! Men du verden for en riktig avgjørelse. Da blir det litt søvn før vi skal gå ned til bc på andre siden av fjellet. Vi kunne kjenne at vinden bare økte på. Takk for solide telt som tåler ei vindkule! På formiddagen blir det plutselig hektisk. Aleks har allerede gått nedover med Ulrika som hadde en skummelt lav oksygenmetning. Vinden øker fremdeles så det er bare å skynde på. Vi får tatt ned teltene og pakker sammen utstyret og begir oss nedover. Bare litt ned i lia så er vinden mye svakere. Vi passerer Camp Nido som vi skulle komme tilbake til før neste toppstøt og går videre nedover verdens lengste og bratteste grusbakke. Hvertfall følte jeg det slik. Nå fikk jeg den første følingen med en kranglete rygg, og på slutten så ble jeg også veldig sliten. Endelig var vi nede i Placa de Mulas som er bc på denne siden av fjellet. Den var svær! Og her var det nettkafeer, dusjhus, pizzarestauranter og andre serveringssteder. Til og med et kunstgalleri med en «strand» utenfor var det her. Stranda var terrassegressmatte og juksepalmer. Det ble sagt at denne basecampen var den nest største etter Everest BC. Men det var fullt belegg her, så vi skulle gå over på andre siden av dalen på et «hotell» En halvtimes rusletur. Det var også en opplevelse. En falleferdig og uferdig bygning som nok hadde vært ment flott engang. Her skulle vi bli i de tre neste dagene mens vi ventet på bedre vær. På kvelden så ble det også en fest i matsalen. Det var jo lørdag igjen! Dagene gikk med til å slappe av og rusle inn til bc for å føle litt på stemningen der. Dessuten så var det godt med pizza, burger og øl.
Vi har fått et værvindu! Men tida er knapp. Torsdag er det meldt kjempefine forhold på fjellet og fredag er siste dagen vi har tillatelse til å være i fjellet. Det betyr at vi må gå 1200 høydemeter opp til Nido i dag, onsdag. Hvile noen timer og støte 1500 meter mot toppen og så ned igjen til Nido og sove der. Så må vi gå helt ut igjen på fredag. Et hårete opplegg, men eneste sjansen vi har. Turen opp igjen gikk greit. Følte meg pigg og ryggen var nesten helt fin. Det var mye trafikk oppover. Mange som satser på toppen nå etter flere dager med sterk vind. Vi har hørt at det har blåst i filler noen telt helt ned til Nido der vi er på vei. Det ble tidlig kveld for vi ble vekket kl. ett. Litt over kl. to startet toppstøtet....
De andre kommer ned igjen. Ulrika måtte dessverre gi seg og kom ned igjen litt senere enn de tre av oss. Men nå kommer de fem pluss to guider som har klart det! En kjempeprestasjon! De får gratulasjoner og litt hjelp til å komme i seng. Det er en lang dag i morgen. Det var jubel da vi noe timer før fikk vite at de var på toppen. Lagfølelsen hadde satt seg godt. Misunnelig var jeg jo så det holdt, men det var likevel så godt å høre at de klarte det. Dagen etter så går vi ned til Placa de Mulas og hotellet igjen. Der organiserer vi bagasjen og sender mest mulig med muldyrene videre. Så er det å labbe nedover Horoconesdalen. Det er et lite stykke bratt i starten og en elvekryssing, men ellers så er det lettgått elveslette. Men det er langt. Vi bruker nesten 8 timer med pauser. Det ble sagt at det var 36 km, men jeg synes det høres langt ut. Men det er mulig de hadde rett. Jeg er i god form og klarer å gå i front helt til siste etappen ned til hovedveien. Jeg sliter meg til og med så vidt foran Aleks og noen av de andre som har greid å få haik med en militær lastebil som har kjørt inn en avstengt vei og hentet noen soldater som har prøvd seg på toppen. Jeg tenkte for meg selv da jeg gikk det siste stykket at Aleks antagelig ville klare å lure seg med der. Typisk han, og jeg fikk rett! Vi blir registrert ut av parken og kjørt ned til Penitentes. Der venter tre av oss som hadde betalt for å ri muldyr ut. Jeg er sliten og sårbeint etter den lange marsjen. Og det første badet på tre uker kjennes akkurat så deilig ut som jeg synes jeg har fortjent. En god middag markerer slutten på fjelleventyret for denne gang.
Dagen etter tar vi farvel med Pinky, Alberto og Carlos. Vi er fornøyd med de, og jeg tror de var fornøyd med oss. Vi kjører landeveien tilbake til Santiago. En lang, lang nedoverbakke og en langtekkelig grensepassering. Vi blir innlosjert på et hotell ikke langt fra der vi bodde når vi kom. En liten rusletur i byen og litt avslappning før vi møttes for å dra ut å spise og ha en liten fest. Og kvelden ble vellykket den. Stikkord: Kilosbiffer, vodka, spandabel Johnny, rockestjerna Johnny, løshunder, homsebar, sushi og glade mennesker. Var på hotellrommet igjen i 6-tida. Dagen etter ble heller rolig. Jeg benyttet anledningen til å ta et langt deilig karbad. Satt litt på nett og oppdaterte meg på nytt hjemmefra og fortalte venner og familie at jeg fremdeles levde. Hadde vært uten nett og telefon i tre uker. Telefonen hadde jeg dessuten mistet på flyet på tur ned. På kvelden dro vi på en alldeles fantastisk fiskerestaurant. Azul Profundo. Den er et must hvis du er i Santiago. Tror jeg fikk mitt livs beste måltid der. Stekt sverdfisk i en fantastisk saus og med salat. Et litt slitt og unseelig lokale men maten var fantastisk. Det ble tidligere kvelden denne dagen. Morgendagen skal bli rolig og hjemreisen starter på kvelden. Det har vært en utrolig tur. Jeg føler meg heldig. Det var ikke en gratis tur, men med ikke mer initiativ så får jeg slike opplevelser som jeg vil huske hele livet. Opplevelser som er få forunt og de fleste misunner. Denne turen har vært litt annerledes enn de andre jeg har vært på. Det har vært fysisk og psykisk hardere og den har vart lenger i tid. Derfor har relasjonene til de andre i gruppa betydd mer. Vi har blitt bedre kjent med hverandre enn på en kortere tur. Vi har vært mer avhengige av hverandre. Laget har betydd mer. Og det gikk knirkefritt. Vi ble et team. Vi ble gode venner. Venner som jeg håper jeg lykkes i å holde kontakten med framover. Det ble et antiklimaks og komme hjem. Behagelig, men jeg blir rastløs. Savner fjellet, folka og slitet. Spesielt folka jeg ble kjent med. De første dagene var det rart å våkne alene i leiligheten. I en måned hadde vi jo bodd omtrent oppå hverandre. Det går nok ikke lenge før jeg pakker pulken og tar skia og labber til fjells. Det er flott her hjemme også.
TUSEN TAKK FOR TUREN, DAG, ALEKSANDER, ANNELI, SILJE, SIV, INGER ELIN, JOHNNY, ELISABETH, VIBEKE, ULRIKA, PINKY, CARLOS OG ALBERTO!
Har du lyst til å se flere bilder så finner du en del på: http://s1125.photobucket.com/albums/l596/Trango1/Aconcagua%20-11/
Selve turbloggen finner du på http://www.gamme.no/ under Eventyrbloggen.
English version:
I have little time so I have used google-translator. I will apologize for all typing, and grammatical errors. Hope u understand most anyway.
English version:
I have little time so I have used google-translator. I will apologize for all typing, and grammatical errors. Hope u understand most anyway.
It is cold and dark. The head lamp lights up the trail a few feet in front of me. I can see the other one step ahead. It is full moon and good visibility. My condition feels good, but my back are painful. Thoughts swirl in my head. Why today? We have not walked more than 300-400 meters. Slightly up the hill behind those cliffs the camp is located at 6,000 meters. I know that I must speed up to raise the group in front. The last half hour has the idea of throwing in the towel began to grind. Will the pain become like I know it can be, my health has not particularly good to be me in steep, difficult terrain of almost 7000 m. It will be dangerous for both myself and those who are trying to help me. I am considering the idea of stuffing myself with pain killers and let it rip. After a while when we get to the camp where we will have a longer break unless I reach the others before, then I have a talk with the guides there. I'm just a good 100 meters behind the others. I can hear them talking together in the for once, weak wind. I keep up. Step by step. The back is getting worse. Not really bad yet, but it hurts in the lower back. If I even had been tired as well .. Is of course out of breath and pulse, but know that I have reserves to use. In front of me I see that one is struggling to hang on the front of the group. She relies on the pole and is not in shape. A little further down, there were a couple that were not feeling well and had to empty themselves. A few turns later I see that the others have stopped. When I come up there is another person who has hit the wall and is out on the trail. Guide Alberto comes over to me and says we must go down and apologize for it. I understand that he does not think the whole team ... But for me it's okay. I've really come so close to the same conclusion, saying that the motivation to continue is not what it should be. I could probably have gone the last few meters up to camp and re-examined there, but I do not think I had continued on from there anyway. Alberto will follow three of us down to Camp Nido that we started from a few hours earlier. It goes down slowly. The other two are bad and have spewed out empty. Cold and empty of energy. They have it much worse than me.
I'm on the mountain Aconcagua in Argentina near the border with Chile. 6962 meters above sea level. The highest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas. And so ended my attempt to reach the top. And it does not feel like a defeat. Well, I feel it's something I have not finished down there, but that chanse are not gone for ever. The mountain is staying for a while. As we walked back down to camp that night as I was how strange it sounds, happy! I had already set a new personal altitude record and received yet another confirmation that I can tolerate altitude well. Knowing that it was taking a sensible and correct decision was there all the time. And in the tent down there is waiting a good warm sleeping bag.
It's January and High summer down here. Once again, the occasion played on teams with a chance and I'm the lucky participant on a trip with Gamme Expeditions. Almost a month on the other side of the globe filled with adventures, friendships, hardships, joy, foreign culture and lots of beautiful scenery. Just the way I love. We are 11 people to go on this trip. 5 of us would reach the top. A success! And it was just as good as I hoped. I knew some of the participants before, but most were unknown. Suits me fine. I like to get to know people in such a setting. To share experiences that characterize the rest of your life. And you tie friendships for the rest of your lives. We were 11 completely different people. At home, we would probably never met. But the love of nature and mountains, and the joy of being on tour and will to challenge ourselves is the common denominator.
We traveled from Norway on a cold day of Christmas. A long journey of almost a half days and we were in Santiago. New Year's celebration, we take here before we fly on to Mendoza in Argentina. I relax at the hotel when it was almost no sleep on the plane for me. We eat dinner at the hotel at the night before we go out to people-watch. I stated early that evening that the New Year at home in Norway, will never be the same. Entertainment and a spectacular fireworks from the city's television tower. And the streets were filled with hundreds of thousands of revelers of all ages. An atmosphere we dont have here at home. And culminating in a cacophony of cheers and squirting champagne when the countdown was over and the fireworks started. Surreal! And an experience one never forgets.
Mendoza. One of the most famous wine districts. A city that has more inhabitants than Oslo, but few houses have more than two floors. And all the streets surrounded by rows of trees. From the plane we had seen the Andes and Aconcagua itself. An impressive sight even though we only saw a fraction of the world's longest mountain chain with thousands of peaks at 5000-6000 m and higher. Here we should arrange permits etc. and eat beef. Eating beef in Mendoza is mandatory. Argentine beef is the best. Beef and red wine is synonymous with Mendoza. Argentine bureaucracy has probably learned a bit from the old Soviet Union, but we got got done what we should do after much walking back and forth in the city. The park permit costing over twice as much as we were informed had better stand the test. Everything will not go on shining on an expedition. It is well above the Norwegian summer temperatures but fortunately there are ac at the hotel room. In the morning the next day we were taken by two minibuses. A four-hour drive into the mountains along the main road back towards Santiago waits. The landscape is special. When we come out of the vineyards it is dry and barren. Heier and low hills with scattered shrub vegetation. Not trees. And all along the road we could see such a small home altars with candles and like the Virgin Mary figures that are so typical of Catholic countries. Eventually, so did the hills room for mountains. High mountains! And completely different from home. The mountains which erodes and weathers to a much greater extent. And a jumble of volcanic and sedimentary rocks. And down in the valleys could see the huge moraines as the rivers cut down in. Penitentes is essentially Argentina's answer to Trysil. A collection of hotels at the resorts. But now it's summer and the hotels are filled with hikers from all over the world.
After a good night in the Penitent we finally start the adventure. A little down in the valley is Punta de Vacas that is our starting point. We have up to three weeks in a tent in front of us. No shower, no shave. We'll get by with wet wipes and Antibac. Moreover, there are mountains sweat known to be clean cases. We are moving slowly on the path towards the Vacas-valley. There is a lot of vegetation. Not a lot of trees but shrubs and some grass. We carry only a backpack with what we need in the draw. The main luggage are send with mules. In the first camp there are barbecue for dinner. And wine. It blows a little cold and people go early to bed. I think most people are very pleased that the hotel beds have been replaced with tents and sleeping bags. The next day the valley widens out. We have a few miles to go but the endless flood plains are able to walk on. But the wind is coming right towards us. Finally, we see the next camp. And to the other side into a narrow valley among the clouds, we can make out the target. Aconcagua! With some snow and high up there, we get a few glimpses. The night is windy. And for my part a little wet. I picked out as a volunteer to test a prototype of a tiny little tent from Helsport. Alexander runs and test some equipment for them and has brought a Helsport Ringstind Ultralight weighing only 900 grams! A good tent but is a bit thin for such a trip. But I slept well!
On such trips it is the day-plan that has been initially suggested. Weather and other circumstances make plans to be changed. So here, too. The whole group is in good shape. And this camp is the miserable conditions and often windy. At the proposal of the guides, we agreed to drop a planned rest day here and go straight to the base camp the day after. There we have access to all the amenities that make mountain life at a leisurely experience. Big food and accommodation tents, toilets, medical treatment, not to mention a much nicer view. Such changes in the plans was taken later when it was decided that we should try to get everyone up to Camp Colera of 6000 meters. And from there go down the other side of the mountain and back out through Horocones. It would prove to be a good choice. We had gone around the mountain and seen it from all sides. The fact that we go into new terrain is great. It is more motivating than going the long way twice.
Base Camp. The word is associated with high mountains. Kilimanjaro and Mount Elbrus has not Basecamp. But Aconcagua is in another category. Here it is lively. Chefs, port, guides and climbers. It is spoken not a few languages around you. It plays music. Some have a generator and a television. During the night, suddenly sends up some fireworks ..!? somebody mate in the neighbouring tent. We suspect the chef.. For those who work here, the base camp are their home in the season. Up to four months. Daily life in 4200 meters of height is not very different from home as you might think. On the way up we had the top front of us. Posing with the top has slowed us. The mountain is powerful! Although we are almost walking a thousand meters higher it does not look like the top coming closer. Now we have two rest days here before we start to carry equipment up the mountain. From now on we do not get the help of mules. But we hire a porter to take our tents for us. We will also see the doctor to be approved. It goes well. I have good, if somewhat whimsical values and results. Some are medicated and get an extra check to see that things are going in the right direction. But all will be cleared. Dag is struggling with a cold and is predicted some days before he can expect an improvement. He decides to get back down and go home. Sad! I've been on such trips with him twice before. He's the sober “totning” which is nice to have in such a diverse group. He chooses to travel by helicopter back down. One of the strongest in the group is suddenly not with us anymore.
It is steep! It is loose rocks! In the backpack I have a little more than seventeen kilograms. And when I only can go over the edge there, I'm 5000 meters above sea level. I'm tired. The last hill is tough! But the form has improved throughout the day. In the morning I was a little unwell. Finally I can see over the edge. The last few meters away to camp is slow. But after five minutes, I am fit like never before. We secure the equipment with rocks and spend a little while before we go down again. Across BC there is a little exposed stretch where we have to tread carefully and watch out for avalanches. It is good both ways. Lasagna for dinner! We have just a good time! "Imagine being here right now guys!" Alexander makes us realize what we are on. Suddenly we find out it's Saturday! Extra wine! And it comes. Just a little party in the mountains. We have another rest day before we leave this base camp for good. I do nothing except to sort luggage. Now we take only what we need over the mountain. The rest is sent with the mules around the mountain and meet us again in base camp on the other side. We have the only day on the trip with bad weather. Gray and some snow flurries. Of 26 days, was 25 completely cloudless and bright sun! The tube with SPF 50 reduces the disturbing fast.
Farewell base camp. No more of comfort for a while. The backpack was a bit heavier than I had hoped. About 15 kg. Although we did the same trip two days ago, it is heavier now. The shape is sort of like every other day. A little nap in the tent did well and by noon I was okay again. The night was not good. I was lying the wrong way in the pitch and felt that all viscera gathered in the sinuses. Turned me over and got to sleep a few hours. Now we carry the equipment up to Camp 2 Less than 500 meters. Again I struggled to get going again and were better shape throughout the day. Now, it's not that I'm sick or in whole rotten shape when we start. Actually, I have it pretty good, but feel that the body provides just 70% in the beginning. Could be because I do not eat breakfast and that it is a long time from dinner the night before for lunch. But I eat breakfast then I certainly get unwell. Water with lots of Tang (juice / juice powder) helps tightly. At this stage, we came so high that we could see mountains on the other side. And now we see them from the side that faced away from the sun. Intense coastal glaciers and peaks everywhere. A beautiful sight. At Camp 2 was the wind and cold and miserable. We ate lunch in haste and sat down again.
I lie in my tent in camp 2. Is tired after the trip up. Yesterday we had a rest day in Camp 1 Weather forecasts has been a little scary now. We have decided to move to camp 3 tomorrow and then start the shot towards the top the following night. It is reported some wind but we will try because it is reported that the wind should increase further over the next few days. In the morning we pack up to go to Camp 3 All are in good shape. I got my day! I feel good when we start and it feels like I'm filled with energy up the hillside. Strange that I feel best when we plows new meters. When we're up in the camp I almost bubbling over. Want to jog to the top. Now it seems it's so close too. A wonderful feeling to have especially when you have set a new personal altitude record. When I got on top of Kilimanjaro that is a hundred meters lower than I am now, so I was completely empty of energy. Now I have to consentrate and calm me down a bit. Try to sleep early when we are awakened at half past two tonight. The sleep is amputated. The wind shakes rag tents. But the time comes and we get dressed carefully and pick up the equipment. Me and Johnny sitting in the tent ready as eggs when Alexander put his head into the tent and say that we can get to sleep again. The wind is too strong. Downturn! But what a correct decision. This makes us have a little sleep before we go down to BC on the other side of the mountain. We could feel that the wind increased in. Thanks for the solid tent that can withstand a wind ball! In the morning it is suddenly busy. Alexander has already gone down with Ulrika, who had a scary low oxygen saturation. The wind is still rising so just to hurry on. We get down tents and pack up equipment and venturing down. Just a bit down the wind is much weaker. We pass Camp Nido as we lay in state before the next attempt to summit and go on down the world's longest and steepest gravel hill. Anyhow, I felt that way. Now I got the first hypo with a squabbling back and at the end so I was very tired. Finally we were down in the Placa del Mulas that is bc at this side of the mountain. It was huge! And here was the Internet cafes, showerhouses, pizza restaurants and other eating places. Even an art gallery with a "beach" outside, it was here. The beach was a terrace lawn and fake palm trees. It was said that this base camp was the second largest after Everest BC. But it was no tents available here, so we would go over on the other side of the valley at a "hotel" A half hour's stroll. There was also an experience. A dilapidated and unfinished building that had probably been intended wonderful once. Here we should be in the next three days while we waited for better weather. In the evening, so there was also a party in the dining hall. It was Saturday again! The days went to relax and stroll into the bc to feel a bit of the mood there. Moreover, there was plenty of pizza, burger and beer.
We've got a weather window! But time is short. Thursday, it reported really nice conditions on the mountain and Friday is the last day we have permission to be in the mountains. That means we have to go 1200 meters up to Nido today. Rest a few hours and come across 1500 meters at the top and then back down to the Nido and sleep there. So we have to go out again on Friday. A hairy scheme but the only chance we have. The trip back up went smoothly. I felt refreshed and back was almost completely fine. There was a lot of traffic up. Many people who walked towards the top after several days of strong winds. We have heard that it has blown apart some tents down to the Nido, where we are headed. It was early evening we were awakened at one o clock. A little over two started the summit-attempt ....
The other comes down. Ulrika unfortunately had to give up and came down again a little later than the three of us. But now comes the five plus two guides who have done it! A great achievement! They receive congratulations and a little help getting into bed. It's a long day tomorrow. There were cheers when we got some hours to learn that they were on top. The team spirit had set up well. Envious, I was quite jealous, but it was still so good to hear that they did it. The next day, then we'll go down to the Placa del Mulas and the hotel again. There, we organize the luggage and send most of the mules on. So it is walking down the Horocones-valley. It's a little bit steep at the beginning and a river crossing but otherwise it's easy to walk alluvial plain. But it's far. We use almost 8 hours with breaks. It was said that it was 36 km but I think it sounds far out. But it is possible they were right. I'm in good shape and able to take the lead until the final stretch down to the main road. I'm struggling myself and even as far ahead of Alexander and some of the others who have managed to hitch a ride with a military truck that has run into a closed road and picked up some soldiers who have tried out on top. I thought to myself as I walked the last stretch that Alexander probably would be able to sneak in there. Typically him, and I were right. We are registered out of the park and raced down to the Penitentes. There three of us who had paid to ride mules out was waiting. I'm tired and got sore feet after the long march. And the first bath in three weeks feels just as delicious as I think I have deserved. A good dinner marks the end of mountain adventure this time.
The next day we bid farewell to Pinky, Alberto and Carlos. We are pleased with them and I think they were happy with us. We run the road back to Santiago. A long, long downhill and a tedious border crossings. We are being accommodated at a hotel not far from where we lived when we came. A short stroll in town and a little relaxation before we met to go out to eat and have a little party. And the evening was successful. Keywords: Kilo Steaks, vodka, generous Johnny, the rock star Johnny, stray dogs, gay-bar, sushi and happy people. I came back at the hotel room in the 6-time. The next day was rather calm. I took the opportunity to take a nice long bath. Surfing on the internet and updated me on news from home and told friends and family that I still lived. Had been without net and phone for three weeks. The phone I had also lost on the plane going down. In the evening we went on a covert fantastic fish restaurant. Azul Profundo. It is a must if you are in Santiago. I think I got the best meal of my life there. Fried swordfish in a wonderful sauce and salad. A bit worn and insignificant local but the food was fantastic. It was previously the evening that day. Tomorrow should be quiet and return journey starts in the evening.
There has been an incredible ride. I feel lucky. It was not a free ride, but with no more initiative then I get this kind of experience that I will remember all my life. Experiences that few people have and most people envy. And this trip has been a little different than the others I've been to. There have been physically and mentally tougher, and it has lasted longer in time. Therefore, relations with others in the group meant more. We have become better acquainted with each other than on a shorter trip. We have been more interdependent. The team has meant more. And it went smoothly. We were a team. We became good friends. Friends that I hope I succeed in keeping in touch with the future. It was an anticlimax to get home. Comfortable, but I am restless. I miss the mountains, people and toil. Especially people I was familiar with. The first day it was strange to wake up alone in the apartment. In a month we had stayed around the top of each other. It is probably not long before I pack and take the ski sled and paws into the mountains. It's great here at home too.
THANK YOU FOR THE TRIP, DAY, ALEKSANDER, Anneli, SILJE, SIV, INGER ELIN, JOHNNY, ELISABETH, Veibeke, Ulrik, Pinky, AND CARLOS ALBERTO!
I'm on the mountain Aconcagua in Argentina near the border with Chile. 6962 meters above sea level. The highest mountain in the world outside the Himalayas. And so ended my attempt to reach the top. And it does not feel like a defeat. Well, I feel it's something I have not finished down there, but that chanse are not gone for ever. The mountain is staying for a while. As we walked back down to camp that night as I was how strange it sounds, happy! I had already set a new personal altitude record and received yet another confirmation that I can tolerate altitude well. Knowing that it was taking a sensible and correct decision was there all the time. And in the tent down there is waiting a good warm sleeping bag.
It's January and High summer down here. Once again, the occasion played on teams with a chance and I'm the lucky participant on a trip with Gamme Expeditions. Almost a month on the other side of the globe filled with adventures, friendships, hardships, joy, foreign culture and lots of beautiful scenery. Just the way I love. We are 11 people to go on this trip. 5 of us would reach the top. A success! And it was just as good as I hoped. I knew some of the participants before, but most were unknown. Suits me fine. I like to get to know people in such a setting. To share experiences that characterize the rest of your life. And you tie friendships for the rest of your lives. We were 11 completely different people. At home, we would probably never met. But the love of nature and mountains, and the joy of being on tour and will to challenge ourselves is the common denominator.
We traveled from Norway on a cold day of Christmas. A long journey of almost a half days and we were in Santiago. New Year's celebration, we take here before we fly on to Mendoza in Argentina. I relax at the hotel when it was almost no sleep on the plane for me. We eat dinner at the hotel at the night before we go out to people-watch. I stated early that evening that the New Year at home in Norway, will never be the same. Entertainment and a spectacular fireworks from the city's television tower. And the streets were filled with hundreds of thousands of revelers of all ages. An atmosphere we dont have here at home. And culminating in a cacophony of cheers and squirting champagne when the countdown was over and the fireworks started. Surreal! And an experience one never forgets.
Mendoza. One of the most famous wine districts. A city that has more inhabitants than Oslo, but few houses have more than two floors. And all the streets surrounded by rows of trees. From the plane we had seen the Andes and Aconcagua itself. An impressive sight even though we only saw a fraction of the world's longest mountain chain with thousands of peaks at 5000-6000 m and higher. Here we should arrange permits etc. and eat beef. Eating beef in Mendoza is mandatory. Argentine beef is the best. Beef and red wine is synonymous with Mendoza. Argentine bureaucracy has probably learned a bit from the old Soviet Union, but we got got done what we should do after much walking back and forth in the city. The park permit costing over twice as much as we were informed had better stand the test. Everything will not go on shining on an expedition. It is well above the Norwegian summer temperatures but fortunately there are ac at the hotel room. In the morning the next day we were taken by two minibuses. A four-hour drive into the mountains along the main road back towards Santiago waits. The landscape is special. When we come out of the vineyards it is dry and barren. Heier and low hills with scattered shrub vegetation. Not trees. And all along the road we could see such a small home altars with candles and like the Virgin Mary figures that are so typical of Catholic countries. Eventually, so did the hills room for mountains. High mountains! And completely different from home. The mountains which erodes and weathers to a much greater extent. And a jumble of volcanic and sedimentary rocks. And down in the valleys could see the huge moraines as the rivers cut down in. Penitentes is essentially Argentina's answer to Trysil. A collection of hotels at the resorts. But now it's summer and the hotels are filled with hikers from all over the world.
After a good night in the Penitent we finally start the adventure. A little down in the valley is Punta de Vacas that is our starting point. We have up to three weeks in a tent in front of us. No shower, no shave. We'll get by with wet wipes and Antibac. Moreover, there are mountains sweat known to be clean cases. We are moving slowly on the path towards the Vacas-valley. There is a lot of vegetation. Not a lot of trees but shrubs and some grass. We carry only a backpack with what we need in the draw. The main luggage are send with mules. In the first camp there are barbecue for dinner. And wine. It blows a little cold and people go early to bed. I think most people are very pleased that the hotel beds have been replaced with tents and sleeping bags. The next day the valley widens out. We have a few miles to go but the endless flood plains are able to walk on. But the wind is coming right towards us. Finally, we see the next camp. And to the other side into a narrow valley among the clouds, we can make out the target. Aconcagua! With some snow and high up there, we get a few glimpses. The night is windy. And for my part a little wet. I picked out as a volunteer to test a prototype of a tiny little tent from Helsport. Alexander runs and test some equipment for them and has brought a Helsport Ringstind Ultralight weighing only 900 grams! A good tent but is a bit thin for such a trip. But I slept well!
On such trips it is the day-plan that has been initially suggested. Weather and other circumstances make plans to be changed. So here, too. The whole group is in good shape. And this camp is the miserable conditions and often windy. At the proposal of the guides, we agreed to drop a planned rest day here and go straight to the base camp the day after. There we have access to all the amenities that make mountain life at a leisurely experience. Big food and accommodation tents, toilets, medical treatment, not to mention a much nicer view. Such changes in the plans was taken later when it was decided that we should try to get everyone up to Camp Colera of 6000 meters. And from there go down the other side of the mountain and back out through Horocones. It would prove to be a good choice. We had gone around the mountain and seen it from all sides. The fact that we go into new terrain is great. It is more motivating than going the long way twice.
Base Camp. The word is associated with high mountains. Kilimanjaro and Mount Elbrus has not Basecamp. But Aconcagua is in another category. Here it is lively. Chefs, port, guides and climbers. It is spoken not a few languages around you. It plays music. Some have a generator and a television. During the night, suddenly sends up some fireworks ..!? somebody mate in the neighbouring tent. We suspect the chef.. For those who work here, the base camp are their home in the season. Up to four months. Daily life in 4200 meters of height is not very different from home as you might think. On the way up we had the top front of us. Posing with the top has slowed us. The mountain is powerful! Although we are almost walking a thousand meters higher it does not look like the top coming closer. Now we have two rest days here before we start to carry equipment up the mountain. From now on we do not get the help of mules. But we hire a porter to take our tents for us. We will also see the doctor to be approved. It goes well. I have good, if somewhat whimsical values and results. Some are medicated and get an extra check to see that things are going in the right direction. But all will be cleared. Dag is struggling with a cold and is predicted some days before he can expect an improvement. He decides to get back down and go home. Sad! I've been on such trips with him twice before. He's the sober “totning” which is nice to have in such a diverse group. He chooses to travel by helicopter back down. One of the strongest in the group is suddenly not with us anymore.
It is steep! It is loose rocks! In the backpack I have a little more than seventeen kilograms. And when I only can go over the edge there, I'm 5000 meters above sea level. I'm tired. The last hill is tough! But the form has improved throughout the day. In the morning I was a little unwell. Finally I can see over the edge. The last few meters away to camp is slow. But after five minutes, I am fit like never before. We secure the equipment with rocks and spend a little while before we go down again. Across BC there is a little exposed stretch where we have to tread carefully and watch out for avalanches. It is good both ways. Lasagna for dinner! We have just a good time! "Imagine being here right now guys!" Alexander makes us realize what we are on. Suddenly we find out it's Saturday! Extra wine! And it comes. Just a little party in the mountains. We have another rest day before we leave this base camp for good. I do nothing except to sort luggage. Now we take only what we need over the mountain. The rest is sent with the mules around the mountain and meet us again in base camp on the other side. We have the only day on the trip with bad weather. Gray and some snow flurries. Of 26 days, was 25 completely cloudless and bright sun! The tube with SPF 50 reduces the disturbing fast.
Farewell base camp. No more of comfort for a while. The backpack was a bit heavier than I had hoped. About 15 kg. Although we did the same trip two days ago, it is heavier now. The shape is sort of like every other day. A little nap in the tent did well and by noon I was okay again. The night was not good. I was lying the wrong way in the pitch and felt that all viscera gathered in the sinuses. Turned me over and got to sleep a few hours. Now we carry the equipment up to Camp 2 Less than 500 meters. Again I struggled to get going again and were better shape throughout the day. Now, it's not that I'm sick or in whole rotten shape when we start. Actually, I have it pretty good, but feel that the body provides just 70% in the beginning. Could be because I do not eat breakfast and that it is a long time from dinner the night before for lunch. But I eat breakfast then I certainly get unwell. Water with lots of Tang (juice / juice powder) helps tightly. At this stage, we came so high that we could see mountains on the other side. And now we see them from the side that faced away from the sun. Intense coastal glaciers and peaks everywhere. A beautiful sight. At Camp 2 was the wind and cold and miserable. We ate lunch in haste and sat down again.
I lie in my tent in camp 2. Is tired after the trip up. Yesterday we had a rest day in Camp 1 Weather forecasts has been a little scary now. We have decided to move to camp 3 tomorrow and then start the shot towards the top the following night. It is reported some wind but we will try because it is reported that the wind should increase further over the next few days. In the morning we pack up to go to Camp 3 All are in good shape. I got my day! I feel good when we start and it feels like I'm filled with energy up the hillside. Strange that I feel best when we plows new meters. When we're up in the camp I almost bubbling over. Want to jog to the top. Now it seems it's so close too. A wonderful feeling to have especially when you have set a new personal altitude record. When I got on top of Kilimanjaro that is a hundred meters lower than I am now, so I was completely empty of energy. Now I have to consentrate and calm me down a bit. Try to sleep early when we are awakened at half past two tonight. The sleep is amputated. The wind shakes rag tents. But the time comes and we get dressed carefully and pick up the equipment. Me and Johnny sitting in the tent ready as eggs when Alexander put his head into the tent and say that we can get to sleep again. The wind is too strong. Downturn! But what a correct decision. This makes us have a little sleep before we go down to BC on the other side of the mountain. We could feel that the wind increased in. Thanks for the solid tent that can withstand a wind ball! In the morning it is suddenly busy. Alexander has already gone down with Ulrika, who had a scary low oxygen saturation. The wind is still rising so just to hurry on. We get down tents and pack up equipment and venturing down. Just a bit down the wind is much weaker. We pass Camp Nido as we lay in state before the next attempt to summit and go on down the world's longest and steepest gravel hill. Anyhow, I felt that way. Now I got the first hypo with a squabbling back and at the end so I was very tired. Finally we were down in the Placa del Mulas that is bc at this side of the mountain. It was huge! And here was the Internet cafes, showerhouses, pizza restaurants and other eating places. Even an art gallery with a "beach" outside, it was here. The beach was a terrace lawn and fake palm trees. It was said that this base camp was the second largest after Everest BC. But it was no tents available here, so we would go over on the other side of the valley at a "hotel" A half hour's stroll. There was also an experience. A dilapidated and unfinished building that had probably been intended wonderful once. Here we should be in the next three days while we waited for better weather. In the evening, so there was also a party in the dining hall. It was Saturday again! The days went to relax and stroll into the bc to feel a bit of the mood there. Moreover, there was plenty of pizza, burger and beer.
We've got a weather window! But time is short. Thursday, it reported really nice conditions on the mountain and Friday is the last day we have permission to be in the mountains. That means we have to go 1200 meters up to Nido today. Rest a few hours and come across 1500 meters at the top and then back down to the Nido and sleep there. So we have to go out again on Friday. A hairy scheme but the only chance we have. The trip back up went smoothly. I felt refreshed and back was almost completely fine. There was a lot of traffic up. Many people who walked towards the top after several days of strong winds. We have heard that it has blown apart some tents down to the Nido, where we are headed. It was early evening we were awakened at one o clock. A little over two started the summit-attempt ....
The other comes down. Ulrika unfortunately had to give up and came down again a little later than the three of us. But now comes the five plus two guides who have done it! A great achievement! They receive congratulations and a little help getting into bed. It's a long day tomorrow. There were cheers when we got some hours to learn that they were on top. The team spirit had set up well. Envious, I was quite jealous, but it was still so good to hear that they did it. The next day, then we'll go down to the Placa del Mulas and the hotel again. There, we organize the luggage and send most of the mules on. So it is walking down the Horocones-valley. It's a little bit steep at the beginning and a river crossing but otherwise it's easy to walk alluvial plain. But it's far. We use almost 8 hours with breaks. It was said that it was 36 km but I think it sounds far out. But it is possible they were right. I'm in good shape and able to take the lead until the final stretch down to the main road. I'm struggling myself and even as far ahead of Alexander and some of the others who have managed to hitch a ride with a military truck that has run into a closed road and picked up some soldiers who have tried out on top. I thought to myself as I walked the last stretch that Alexander probably would be able to sneak in there. Typically him, and I were right. We are registered out of the park and raced down to the Penitentes. There three of us who had paid to ride mules out was waiting. I'm tired and got sore feet after the long march. And the first bath in three weeks feels just as delicious as I think I have deserved. A good dinner marks the end of mountain adventure this time.
The next day we bid farewell to Pinky, Alberto and Carlos. We are pleased with them and I think they were happy with us. We run the road back to Santiago. A long, long downhill and a tedious border crossings. We are being accommodated at a hotel not far from where we lived when we came. A short stroll in town and a little relaxation before we met to go out to eat and have a little party. And the evening was successful. Keywords: Kilo Steaks, vodka, generous Johnny, the rock star Johnny, stray dogs, gay-bar, sushi and happy people. I came back at the hotel room in the 6-time. The next day was rather calm. I took the opportunity to take a nice long bath. Surfing on the internet and updated me on news from home and told friends and family that I still lived. Had been without net and phone for three weeks. The phone I had also lost on the plane going down. In the evening we went on a covert fantastic fish restaurant. Azul Profundo. It is a must if you are in Santiago. I think I got the best meal of my life there. Fried swordfish in a wonderful sauce and salad. A bit worn and insignificant local but the food was fantastic. It was previously the evening that day. Tomorrow should be quiet and return journey starts in the evening.
There has been an incredible ride. I feel lucky. It was not a free ride, but with no more initiative then I get this kind of experience that I will remember all my life. Experiences that few people have and most people envy. And this trip has been a little different than the others I've been to. There have been physically and mentally tougher, and it has lasted longer in time. Therefore, relations with others in the group meant more. We have become better acquainted with each other than on a shorter trip. We have been more interdependent. The team has meant more. And it went smoothly. We were a team. We became good friends. Friends that I hope I succeed in keeping in touch with the future. It was an anticlimax to get home. Comfortable, but I am restless. I miss the mountains, people and toil. Especially people I was familiar with. The first day it was strange to wake up alone in the apartment. In a month we had stayed around the top of each other. It is probably not long before I pack and take the ski sled and paws into the mountains. It's great here at home too.
THANK YOU FOR THE TRIP, DAY, ALEKSANDER, Anneli, SILJE, SIV, INGER ELIN, JOHNNY, ELISABETH, Veibeke, Ulrik, Pinky, AND CARLOS ALBERTO!
